"Slip a fork into the pappardelle with veal Bolognese. Shiny with just enough herb-flecked sauce that one noodle peels away from the rest as you lift, they are rolled so thin that they're almost weightless. Taste them, and you notice their delicacy along with the naked simplicity of the chopped veal gently cooked into tenderness with dark and meaty dried porcini. There is no milk in this Bolognese and no tomatoes apart from some juice, but nothing is missing."
From the March 29, 2016, New York Times Restaurant Review: At Lilia in Brooklyn, Missy Robbins Is Cooking Pasta Again. Written by Pete Wells.