Thursday, October 17, 2013

"The most intriguing flavors hide out in Khe-Yo's sauces. Grilled black bass that comes to the table with its blackened head staring up like a totem is ordinary until you wrap it in lettuce with a funky, salty ham of tamrind and peanuts. This makes it great. A similar transformation happens when you dip the sesame beef jerky in a thick paste of assorted dried smoked chilies pounded with a galangal. The condiment is as dark and gloss as shoe polish, and the peppers contribute both fruitiness and spice that make it wonderfully complex."

From the October 16, 2013 New York Times Dining Section restaurant review, The Crunchy Lure of Southeast Asia, by Pete Wells.

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