Monday, December 01, 2014

"There are many reasons why Korean fried chicken is such a superbly satisfying eating experience. Fingers aren't spoiled, because the sauce is lightly brushed on, and only after the chicken is cooked. The meat remains juicy, because the bird is cooked at a lower temperature than its American brethren. The chicken is dipped in a very finely ground flour, and, as a result, the shell is paper-thin, almost translucent; it is pierced, not shattered, on first bite. Because the skin and flesh is cooked evenly, the disconcerting layer of fat in between is exorcised. Although Turntable offers a soy-and-garlic sauce, the hot and spicy is the main event, with a slow and subtle burn. A plate of wings with a side of pickled daikon rash is the ideal mix of salty and sour, crunchy and chewy. Human tastebuds are powerless again such a deeply addictive sequence. All there is to do is add soju, and repeat."

From Tables for Two and written by Amelia Lester in the December 8 2014 issue of The New Yorker.

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