Saturday, September 26, 2015

"On a recent Monday morning, Ruth Reichl, the sixty-seven-year-old food writer and adoptive hippie inclined mom, to scores of the gastronomically inclined, stood at the corner of Grand and Mott, prying open a plastic container of white mush. 'This old lady over there had doufu hua in this big pot!' she said. 'It's hot tofu with sweet sauce. It's, like, one of the best things you can buy in this city for a dollar and a half. ' She then took a couple of rapturous bites, then offered it to a new acquaintance---'We just have one spoon, you don't have anything wrong with you, do you?'"

From the September 28, 2015, issue of The New Yorker's Talk of the Town. Written by Emma Allen.

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